*Inhales Deeply*

I feel like I'm coming up for breath.

Finally, I can write something. Actually, post something. I wrote what you're about to read the other day, but with no proper internet connection there was no way of getting it sent out into the ether.

So sure it's written. But it feels like the kind of written that's put into an envelope waiting to be read.

I'm so excited to witness the progression of these posts. And for you to witness them, one right after another, because they tie together seemlessly in a perfect wave of chaos and cause and effect.

In a way I probably wouldn't see otherwise, because when I post one a day I don't think about the subtlety and chemistry between the days and how everything ties together....

okay let's go...

I haven't posted in days because I haven't had an internet connection in days.

Also, after hearing what happened in Toronto, I figured it wasn't appropriate and wanted to wait for the dust to settle.

In my wifi-free time, I hiked to a mosque on a mountain. Said hi to a stray dog, saw a bunch of strange animals, like: turtles, mules, a chameleon, an ostrich, and even an albino peacock.

Yes this is real:

Said hi to every donkey I passed. On looked at chickens and sheep. Kissed at kittens and wild cats in the street. There are all kinds of animals to be seen in this country.

Chefchaouen spoiled us. Between beautiful vistas, nice people, a medina full of personality, and the feeling of total safety. Not to mention the fire every night and tea any time we wanted.

We left Chefchaouen, our sanctuary and refuge, a day too early I'd say, and came to Casablanca, a place we were not ready for.

Casablanca is easily my least favourite part of Morocco. Even Marrakech was 10x better than this place. Granted, it's one of the largest cities and the economic center of the country, but it's just so… bleh. Yep, that's the word I chose, "bleh".

It's just a city. With crazy traffic, scammer cab drivers, and apparently motor bike thieves. No, not people who steal motor bikes. People on motorbikes that ride by and swipe your bag right off you or your cell phone right out of your hand. Terrifying.

I have now heard a number of stories of people, mainly men, being mugged and beat up when walking around alone at night. About certain neighbourhoods that aren't friendly to tourists. And about people being sent to prison and being forgotten, left to rot for years longer than they should have been.

I don't like the feel of this place. Though I will say our Air B&B hosts are quite nice. No wifi connection though, and my sim card "ran out of data" at 1.9 gigs when I definitely paid for 3.

I'm so ready to leave Morocco. Be back in a place where I don't have to feel weird in short sleeves. Where there are closer to equal amounts of men and women on the streets. Where bathrooms regularly have TP. And where I don't have to haggle for everything.

Like, ok, haggling is great and all when you want a better price, but sometimes it's just flat out ridiculous. I feel like it's just a sure way to get yourself and/or the other person pissed off. Either way someone feels they're getting ripped off.

Today we took a cab to the mosque. It's like, THE mosque of Morocco. The one where tourists are allowed to enter and it's big and beautiful and epic.

We weren't able to enter, because we didn't find out til last minute that it's only open to outsiders in the morning. And we made plans for an afternoon. Opps.

The place was stunning though. Right on the ocean. SO much ornate detail, EVERYWHERE. Pure artistry. Geometrical genius. That is really the truth about all Moroccan, Arabic architecture and art. Really visually appealing stuff. You gotta try it. And by that I mean check it out and let your mind be blown by the perfect symmetry in handicraft.

The cab we got had a meter, and so we paid 15DH for our ride there. That's like a 15 minute cab ride for $2. Great, right?

Then for the way back, the cabbies wanted 70DH, 60DH, 50DH was the lowest they went. But we kept refusing them and making them drive away because we knew what it actually cost.

Eventually we found one with a meter and paid less than the ride there. Just goes to show you can't trust everyone. But it also shows that there are good, honest people who aren't all out to scam you.

It's a weird world here. Even the language is confusing. Arabic infused with french and spanish. Most people here speak two or all three, separately and fluently, but also mixed together as a local dialect. On top of that, some of them speak Hebrew, some speak one of 3 variations of a language called "Berber", and of course English.

Did you know Morocco was originally inhabited by Jews? It was also a refuge for the Jewish people during both the Spanish Inquisition and WW2. There are many Jewish communities here, and even some of the best schools in Morocco are Jewish schools.

If you're going to come to Morocco, my biggest recommendation: brush up on your french. Way more people speak french here than they do english. It's probably your best bet.

Other recommendations you ask? Sure: Don't touch or feed the stray dogs/cats. Don't make direct or prolonged eye contact. Don't go out at night unless you're with a local or in a known safe area. Don't have your phone out unless absolutely necessary. Don't drink the tap water. Don't even wash your food with it. Ask to take pictures of pretty much everything. And soup is always a safe cheap meal, with lots of bread. Moroccan salad is also very good, and fresh.

OH! And try to bring your own TP. You definitely aren't guaranteed anything, from toilet paper, to a sitting toilet (vs hole in the floor squatter), to hand soap or even a sink. Don't expect anything.

What you can expect in Morocco: lots of bread, little to no alcohol, lots of men, yogurt sold everywhere, and English options on the ATM. Argan oil is sold pretty much everywhere too. Saffron is cheap, but make sure it's fresh. Hash and weed can be found easily. People will actually walk right up to you asking if you're looking for it. And if you're a woman, don't expect to find tampons, anywhere.

Also, most if not all of the cheese here is goat/sheep cheese. It's like soft feta that tastes like plain yogurt. It's not bad on bread.

The exchange rate isn't bad. It's basically 10DH = 1 Euro. You can make your money go a long way, so long as you don't get sucked in to buying a million things, like souvenirs for everyone you know. Or if you just pay the first said price without the haggle. Always haggle, and they will either engage the haggle game or tell you no, it's a fixed price.

I'm ready to leave though. I'm ready to nap because of overwhelm, but I'm also ready to gtfo of here and move on back through the european landscape.

Amsterdam's next. I'm there for a national holiday. Wish me luck.

All my love,

G